2 (750-milliliter) bottles Piedmontese red wine (such as Barolo)

2 pounds yellow onions (about 4 medium onions), finely chopped (about 6 cups)

12 ounces carrots (about 4 medium carrots), peeled and finely chopped (about 2 cups)

1 medium (about 1-ounce) celery stalk, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)

3 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon)

1 (4- to 4 1/2-pound) boneless top blade roast

4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons black pepper, divided, plus more to taste

Stir together wine, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, and cloves in a large enameled Dutch oven. Rub meat all over with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper, and place in wine mixture. Cover with lid, and refrigerate overnight (about 12 hours).

Remove meat from wine mixture. Scrape off any vegetables stuck to meat, and transfer meat to a large plate. Pat dry with paper towels. Pour wine mixture through a colander set over a large bowl; reserve vegetables and liquid separately at room temperature. Wash and dry Dutch oven.

Add oil to cleaned Dutch oven; heat over medium-high. Sprinkle meat all over with remaining 2 teaspoons salt and remaining 1 teaspoon pepper. Add meat to Dutch oven; cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, 16 to 20 minutes. Transfer meat to a large plate. Add reserved vegetable mixture to drippings in Dutch oven; cook over medium-high, stirring often, until softened, 12 to 16 minutes. Return meat to Dutch oven, and pour in reserved strained wine. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer, turning meat occasionally, until meat is fork-tender, 2 hours to 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Transfer meat to a cutting board, and tent with foil; let rest while reducing sauce. Remove and discard rosemary sprig and bay leaves from mixture in Dutch oven. Using a fine wire-mesh strainer, scoop and remove vegetable mixture from Dutch oven, and transfer to a medium bowl; set aside. Increase heat under Dutch oven to medium; cook, stirring occasionally, until wine mixture reaches the consistency of jus and has reduced to about 2 1/2 cups, 30 to 35 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, if desired.

Slice meat crosswise into 1/3-inch-thick pieces. Arrange on a platter. Ladle about 1/2 cup sauce over meat on platter. Serve alongside mashed potatoes and reserved vegetables. Serve remaining sauce on the side. —Otto Lucà, Langotto Ristorante, Piedmont, Italy

Recipe can be prepared through step 3 up to 1 day in advance. Let cool completely, and chill overnight. Reheat over medium, and proceed with step 4.

Structured, cherry-scented Barolo: Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova