This chunky green chile and tomato salsa from singer-writer Linda Ronstadt’s new book, Feels Like Home: A Song for the Sonoran Borderlands (out October 4), showcases Anaheim chiles, a key ingredient in the fare of the Sonoran Desert. “Anaheim chiles are a great border-crossing chile, popular across the Southwest and northern Mexico,” says Ronstadt. “They’re about six inches long and not terribly hot, but deliciously essential, whether fresh and green or dried and red.” She serves this salsa with carne asada (grilled steak).

And one thing you’ll never find in Ronstadt’s kitchen? Supermarket sauce. “Many people in Tucson cook with a brand of red chile sauce that comes in a jar,” she notes. “I never liked it.” Making your own, using the family recipe featured in Rondstadt’s new memoir, requires a little more effort than store-bought sauce, but it’s worth it, she promises.

Red chile sauce is the backbone of many dishes in the Sonoran Desert, says Ronstadt, turning up in everything from enchiladas and tamales to braised beef and pork. You can find the dried chiles, along with Mexican oregano (it has bright citrusy notes compared to the Mediterranean variety), in many supermarkets, in any Mexican grocery and, of course, online.

This yields a thick, earthy, almost paste-like sauce, and depending on the recipe in which it’s used, you can thin it with chicken or beef stock to your desired consistency.

Related: Linda Ronstadt Talks to Parade About Her Songs, Losing Her Voice and Her New Book and Album

[Adapted from Feels Like Home: A Song for the Sonoran Borderlands by Linda Ronstadt and Lawrence Downes, with photographs by Bill Steen © 2022. Excerpted with permission from Heyday.]

Green Chile and Tomato Salsa (Salsa de Chile Verde con Tomate)

1. Roast chiles, either by holding them with tongs over a gas burner, on a sheet pan under the broiler or on an outdoor grill. Turn them occasionally as they roast until almost completely blackened. Place chiles in a paper or plastic bag, or cover them with a damp towel, until cool enough to handle. Remove skins, stems and seeds. Cut chiles into ½-inch strips, then coarsely chop.

2. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Use a sharp knife to score an “X” in skins on bottom of tomatoes. Boil tomatoes 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer tomatoes from pot (reserve water). Let tomatoes cool slightly before peeling.

3. Place peeled tomatoes in a large bowl. Mash lightly with a potato masher. Stir in roasted chiles, cilantro, salt and pepper. If salsa seems dry, add a little cooking water.

Red Chile Sauce (Salsa de Chile Colorado)

1. Remove stems and seeds from chiles. Place chiles and 2 cups water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 10 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking water.

2. In a blender, combine chiles, garlic, oregano and salt. Puree until smooth, adding cooking water if needed to blend. Press through a medium-mesh strainer into a bowl. Discard any stray seeds or bits of skin.

3. In a large skillet over medium, heat lard until shimmering. Stir in flour. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes or until thick. Reduce heat to medium-low. Carefully add chile mixture (it may splatter); cook 5–10 minutes, stirring constantly. Taste as you cook—sauce will become sweeter and lose its rawness. Add salt if needed.