Bins and displays of round, squatty, bumpy and misshapen pumpkins in hues of orange as well as whites, grays, yellows and greens are welcome harbingers of fall.

Most buyers see seasonal decorations to be carved or arranged in household displays, because about 90% of the pumpkins produced in Texas are for "seasonal ornamental use," according to the Texas AgriLife Extension Service.

Illinois usually produces the most pumpkins annually, followed typically by − in no particular order − California, Indiana, Texas and Virginia.

That means pumpkins, once an important food source for indigenous people in North and Central American for thousands of years, now are more likely to garner oohs and aahs stacked on a porch instead of served on a plate or bowl.

As for the pumpkin spice craze in recent years, that's about the flavor of the spices and not the pumpkins, which can be bland, bitter or slightly sweet and nutty, depending on the variety.

But, where others see decorations in those pumpkin bins, I see a tasty puree for desserts and soups. Fresh pumpkin puree is much more delightful than canned. And, the puree can be frozen, which more than justifies the time and effort involved in roasting pumpkin flesh and pulverizing it in a food processor.

Not all pumpkins are ideal for carving, or for cooking.

Want to carve a pumpkin? Look for ones labeled Jack-o'-lantern. They'll be large and have thinner walls of flesh. That's the perfect canvas for cutting shapes and silhouettes for back lighting with candles or battery-powered tea lights.

Smaller pie pumpkins are marketed for cooking because of their natural sweetness and thick walls of flesh.

But if I'm going to take the time to make fresh pumpkin puree, I want a large quantity for my effort. So I skip the petite pie pumpkins for the large, squatty ornamental pumpkins. I've had tasty, naturally sweet results with varieties marketed as Cinderella, Fairy Tale and Jarrahdale. The latter is a blue-gray variety original to New Zealand.

More:Introduce Hello Dolly to Jack O’Lantern for real magic

To make pumpkin puree, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop the seeds. Cut each half into halves. Place the pumpkin pieces cut side up on a baking sheet and roast until fork tender, which can take 30 to 75 minutes, depending on the thickness of the pumpkin walls. 

When the cooked pumpkin is cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh, place in a food processor and purée until smooth. Use the purée in any pumpkin recipe, or freeze in resealable plastic bags for later use.

I like to freeze the pumpkin purée in 1- and 2-cup portions. Substitute two cups of homemade purée for one can in recipes.

Important note: Fresh pumpkin puree can have more water than canned. So, after I thaw a bag, I pour the puree in a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl to let the water drain for about 30 minutes before using in a baking recipe.

Following is a delightful pumpkin bar recipe I made recently by changing the filling on tried-and-true Apricot Almond Squares. Jam between the crust and cream cheese topping usually gives the dessert its pop of fruity flavor.

But fresh pumpkin puree sweetened with brown sugar and seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves was an easy substitute and perfect for fall get-togethers.

Laura Gutschke is a general assignment reporter and food columnist and manages online content for the Reporter-News.  If you appreciate locally driven news, you can support local journalists with a digital subscription to ReporterNews.com. 

1 yellow cake mix with pudding

1/2 cup finely chopped slivered almonds

2 cups fresh pumpkin puree, strained (or 1 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree, unsweetened)

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1 large egg, at room temperature

2. Use the low setting of a stand-up mixer or hand mixer and large bowl to combine the cake mix, butter and almonds until crumbly. Reserve one cup for crumble topping. Press the remaining mixture evenly over the bottom of an ungreased 9- by 13-inch baking dish.

3. In a medium bowl, add the pumpkin puree. Stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves until well blended. Gently spread the pumpkin mixture over the crust.

4. In the mixing bowl, whip the cream cheese until creamy. Add the egg, flour, sugar and almond extract. Beat on low speed for 1-2 minutes. Spread the creamy mixture over the pumpkin puree.

5. Scatter the saved crust mixture over the top.

6. Bake for 33 to 35 minutes, until topping is golden brown. Let cool completely before serving. Tastes better if made a day before serving. Store in the refrigerator for firmer bars. Yields 20-24 bars.